Learning to surf
As you might expect, the key to learning how to surf is balance. The way that most professional surfing instructors teach new surfers how to get used to being on a board is by setting down the board on the beach and just taking some time standing on the board and moving around. This way, you can get an idea of the relationship of your body movements with the balance of the board, which will be a key factor to learning how to get on your feet for to catch your first wave. With a little bit of practice, you'll be ready to head out to water and take on the breakers.
Know your risks
It is very impressive how some of the surfers deal with the highest waves and it always looks so easy to do. If you are a surfer you know that being in perfect physical condition is a necessity in order to beat the waves. The challenge in surfing is to ride the highest wave without falling off the board.
Before surfing alone a beginner should always surf with a professional. In case a surfer falls off the board he should emerge with stretched arms. That way the surfer doesn't collide with the board. Surfboards are made of hard materials and represents a high injury risk.
Two surfers should nevers surf behind each other because the one first could lose control over his board and a following wave could injure the surfer behind with it.
Another necessity is knowing the terrain in which you want to surf in. Some beaches are dangerous because of drifts which can't be seen or rocks underneath the water surface. Make sure there are no sharks or lions mane jellyfish.
It is important to know the risks and to counteract against them.